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Cabinet painting materials checklist

The short answer: to paint kitchen cabinets with a brush and roller you need a degreaser, sanding sponges (180-220 grit and 320 grit), filler for repairs, tape and labels, a bonding primer, cabinet enamel, a brush and a small roller, and bumper pads, plus a lead test kit in homes built before 1978. Answer four questions below to get a checklist for your kitchen, then tick items off or print it.

Your cabinets

Your checklist

Safety before you buy

Lead paint (homes built before 1978). Sanding old paint can release lead dust. Test the finish first and follow lead-safe practices if it is positive. Anyone paid to do the work generally must be EPA Lead-Safe Certified. EPA RRP program
Flammable solvents. Shellac-based primer is alcohol-based and highly flammable; Rust-Oleum's U.S. safety data sheet for Zinsser B-I-N lists a flash point of 17°C (about 63°F). Turn off pilot lights and the stove and keep sparks and flames out of the room. B-I-N safety data sheet
Ventilation. Keep fresh air moving while you prime, paint and while coats dry, and follow each product label for respirator use.

How much paint does this checklist assume?

One gallon of primer, and cabinet enamel by the number of doors and drawer fronts: 1 gal up to 20, 2 gal up to 45, 3 gal above that. Fixr says an average kitchen takes one to two gallons; the cutoffs are a SheenWise assumption, the same one our cabinet project planner uses for its DIY cost. Always check the coverage on your product's label.

What do professional refinishers use instead?

From our own jobs: we spray pre-catalyzed (pre-cat) lacquer, one coat of pre-cat primer and two topcoats on painted cabinets, mostly Mohawk, though Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore also make good lacquers and brand is mostly about what is available locally. We spray doors whenever possible; brushing or rolling is fine on vanity frames. Pre-cat is solvent-based and highly flammable and needs a spray setup, strong ventilation and a respirator, so it is not part of the DIY checklist. See what we use on real jobs.

The two mistakes we see most are poor cleaning and prep and not leaving enough dry time; ventilation and temperature change how long each coat needs. That is why the degreaser and sanding sponges are at the top of the list.

Frequently asked questions

What supplies do I need to paint kitchen cabinets?

For the brush-and-roll route: a degreaser, clean rags or microfiber cloths, 180-220 grit and 320 grit sanding sponges, two-part wood filler if you have dents or old hardware holes, painter's tape and labels, a bonding primer (shellac-based on oak, cherry, knots or stains), cabinet enamel, a brush for profiles and edges, a small roller for flat areas, and clear bumper pads for rehanging. Add a lead test kit if the home was built before 1978.

How much paint do I need for kitchen cabinets?

This checklist uses one gallon of primer and one gallon of cabinet enamel for up to 20 doors and drawer fronts, two gallons up to 45, and three gallons above that. Fixr says an average kitchen takes one to two gallons; the 20 and 45 cutoffs are a SheenWise assumption. Check the coverage on your product's label.

Do I need primer on stained cabinets?

Not if you are keeping a stained look. On our stained jobs we usually skip primer: we lightly sand, put new stain over the existing stain or go straight to a light topcoat, then finish with one or two clear topcoats. Primer is for painted, opaque finishes.

Can I paint laminate or thermofoil cabinets?

Paint can be made to stick with a bonding primer made for slick surfaces, but on our jobs we generally recommend new doors or refacing for laminate and thermofoil instead of paint.

What do professional cabinet refinishers use?

Many pro refinishers, including us, spray a pre-catalyzed (pre-cat) lacquer system: on painted cabinets, one coat of pre-cat primer and two topcoats, mostly Mohawk for us, though Sherwin-Williams and Benjamin Moore also make good lacquers. It is solvent-based, highly flammable and needs a spray setup, strong ventilation and a respirator, so it is not on the DIY list.

Next steps: follow the step-by-step kitchen cabinet painting guide, compare DIY and pro costs in the cabinet project planner, or see how SheenWise labels first-hand and researched advice.

Labels: items marked "our jobs" come from Brandon's own refinishing work; everything else is researched general guidance. Read the label and safety data sheet for every product you buy.